Walk No 9.....Waterfall Bay to Clemes Peak 10/3/2011

Today's walk is the result of needing more training for the overland trip which is only 4 weeks away.  Janine and I decided to undertake a good climbing walk while carrying our packs loaded to about 15 kilos (what were we thinking!!).


We set off from Hobart at 8.00am in quite wet conditions which improved the further south east we travelled.  By the time we got to the Peninsula at about 9.30 it was fairly dry but the threat of rain was quite evident....great, not only would we be able to test our stamina carrying the packs but we may also experience walking in the wet.


This walk, as described in the walks book, takes in the rugged top of Clemes Peak (407 metres above sea level) and the highest view point on the Peninsula, Tatnells Hill.  Rated as a medium grade walk which can be completed in three hours, there is lots to see so allowing more time is desirable.


To access the start of the track turn left off the Arthur Highway at Eaglehawk Neck onto the C338 Blowhole Road and travel for 2km before turning right into Waterfall Bay Road at a sign marked "Waterfall Bay Lookout 4km".  Drive along this road to the lookout parking area....this is the destination of the walk we completed 4/3/2011.


The track climbs steeply from the carpark around the cliffs of Waterfall Bay through tall, slim regrowth Stringybarks with an understorey including Dogwood, Musk, Native Cherry and Bedfordia.  There are also clumps of aptly named Cutting Grass so watch out, the silica crystals along the edges of the leaves will slice skin with ease.  There are a number of lookout points as the track follows the 100 metre cliffs and these provide views back along the coast towards Tasman Arch and also to a sea cave at the base of the cliffs below the carpark.

Waterfall Bay is a region known for its tunnels, caverns and caves.  One of the most spectacular is known as Cathedral Cave with its huge entrance (maximum water depth 21m) extending back into smaller caverns with narrow tunnels and cross passages, often with large schools of fish near the entrances. They are considered as Australia's best ocean cave dives, walls covered in sponges and colourful invertebrates normally found in much deeper water.  Eaglehawk Dive Centre run tours of the system from their 6m boat "DIVERSifiCATion".  The centre provides training, anyone interested in pursuing this activity can obtain information from http://www.eaglehawkdive.com.au.  Just to whet your appetite check out this video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsUnXZm_MvE&feature=related

After about 20 minutes the track descends to Camp Falls, where there is a camping or picnic spot at the top of the falls.  Waterfall Creek is the source of the cascade at Waterfall Bay. At this point there is an opportunity to do a side trip and continue on for approximately 15 minutes to Waterfall Bluff where there are sensational views to the south of Cape Hauy, Totem Pole and The Candlestick. Back on the main track, cross the creek and follow the left bank upstream past a sign marked "Fortescue Bay".

After approximately 300 metres there is a rough track  on the left.  Take this track and climb steeply through regrowth timber of Stringybark and Dogwood, crossing a small section of smooth rock. Approximately an hour after leaving Camp Falls the summit of Clemes Peak is reached by way of a rocky path, where two sharp climbing turns to the left can be easily missed.  The climb is quite relentless and I found it fairly tough going...the 15 kilo pack on my back probably didn't help matters!

can't believe we actually did this

Views from the summit sweep from Schouten Island in the far north, past Maria Island, the Forestier coast, Eaglehawk Neck, Waterfall Bay and Hippolyte Rock, to the Three Thumbs and Cape Hauy in the south.....the summit of Tatnells Hill can be seen in the southwest. Unfortunately, the northern views weren't visible due to the misty conditions, however the scenery was still spectacular.

Highest viewpoint on Peninsula Tatnells Hill

Yay...made it!!

After a short break for photo ops and to admire the view we started the descent, due to the wet conditions the track was quite slippery and was actually just as hard to negotiate as the upwards trek.  The track now drops off the southern end of the first peak and follows the western base of the other peaks.  From here the route steadily descends, first to the southwest, then west across the head of a small valley.  Some very large fallen logs indicate that this section of forest was once much different from what it is today.

After about 30 minutes walking from the summit of Clemes Peak, the main Waterfall Bay to Fortescue Bay track is rejoined...at this junction you can turn left and head towards Tatnells Hill (as described in the walks book) or go right and head back to Camp Falls.  We decided to head back to the falls and save the trek up Tatnells Hill for another day.


The trip back takes approximately an hour and travels through wet forest, crossing and re-crossing the main creek several times. A wet forest has a ground layer in which ferns, excluding bracken, are dominant. The canopy of wet forest may be dominated by a range of Eucalypts.

Waterfall Creek

Wet Forest

From Camp Falls retrace the outward route to the Waterfall Bay car park. Once back at the carpark you will have covered just over 12 kms and been on the track for over 4 hours.

Wow, what a hike!  Hadn't encountered the steep rocky track that was a feature of this walk before, however the challenges it presented together with the wet conditions made it very satisfying to get through it relatively unscathed.  A word of warning, make sure you take some salt with you on this hike to remove leeches as they are everywhere on the track from the summit...not nice.

Walk No 6....The one that wasn't..... 4/3/2011

Have got a newbie on board for today's hike, Janine my fellow Overlander has suggested we take our training for the Overland Track to the Peninsula...what a great idea and I don't need to be asked twice!


Now to come up with a walk that will assist with our training....something challenging with some climbs. Tatnells Hill Via Balt Spur seems to tick all the boxes....a 2 and a half hour return hike to the highest viewpoint on the Tasman Peninsula. Access to the start of the track is via the Arthur Highway and turning left into Camp Road about 500 metres south of the junction at Taranna, just past the Tasmanian Devil Park.  A drive of 2kms should get you to Balts Road.  I say should, however this was not the case on this occasion as a wayward tree had fallen across the road and blocked access.  Unfortunately it was too heavy to pull out of the way.

Janine attempting to clear the way

So, a change of plan was needed as we weren't going any further up this road.  A quick retreat to the nearest cafe to discuss our next move was in order. One latte and cappuccino later we decided to use this opportunity to knock over a couple of the shorter walks that are included in the walks book.  


First stop and walk number 6 (take 2) is Point Puer....a half hour family friendly walk.  By family friendly I mean a walk suitable for young children and elderly walkers, on a clearly marked track with easy gradients, and generally quite short. We decided not to bother with the loaded backpacks for this one!


Point Puer is part of the Port Arthur Historic Site and the site of the Boys Prison. Three thousand boys, some as young as nine years old, were sentenced to the Point Puer Boys Prison between 1834 and 1849.  Point Puer was the first reformatory built exclusively for juvenile male convicts in the British Empire. It was renowned for its regime of stern discipline and harsh punishment. 

The walk is an easy stroll leading to a pleasant grassy bank and there are excellent views to the Tasman National Park.  This is a significant archeological site and walkers should not disturb artifacts and should stay clear of dig sites.


To access this area turn left off the Arthur Highway approximately 500 metres past the entrance to the Port Arthur Historic Site onto the C347 road to Remarkable Cave.  Drive 3.2km to a gravel road on the left with a sign marked Tasman Golf Club.  Follow this road alongside the water for 1km, ignoring a turnoff to the right leading to the golf club, and park near a locked gate.

Follow the the road for 5 minutes to where it descends close to the shore near the rocky base of an old jetty.  Walk past a second gate and follow the well formed track along the coast behind Old Station Beach.  From here there are views across the bay to the shipwrights' cottages at Port Arthur, while in the west the village of Carnarvon hugs the coast beneath Palmers Lookout and Mt Arthur.

After a little way you will come across a lily pond and at this point the track rises gently as it leaves the coast.  The track crosses a grassy bank then forms again and passes through a pretty tree lined area.  

The track continues around the ruins which are now in the process of being restored, and back to the carpark.


This is a very pleasant stroll with some spectacular views to the Tasman National Park, however as at times the track passes along the cliff edge which is crumbly and unguarded care should be taken with small children.


Walk Number 7....Taranna Forest Walk


The Taranna Forest Walk enables people of all ages and fitness levels to enjoy the beauty and majesty of Tasmania's tallest tree species...Eucalyptus regnans also known as Swamp Gum.  They are truly magnificent, the tallest flowering plant in the world, and on this short walk you can see several impressive specimens, together with their rainforest understorey.

How to get there:- Turn left off the Arthur Highway approximately 3.5km west of Eaglehawk Neck into Pirates Road. Drive along this road for 4.1km to a marked car park on the left. The walking track heading into the forest is just opposite the car park. The track crosses a small creek and winds through the forest.  There are several huge Eucalyptus regnans, these magnificent trees can reach 100 metres in height and many in this area are over 60 metres.

The understorey is mainly rainforest species made up of Sassafras, Native Laurel and Musk, with Treeferns, Kangaroo Ferns and many species of mosses creating a pleasant green backdrop to the trunks of the massive trees.  The track recrosses the creek and returns to the road 50 metres from the car park.

Walk Number 8 ...Devils Kitchen to Waterfall Bay


This walk is a one & a half to two hour family friendly stroll which takes in some of the Peninsula's most impressive coastal features.


To get to the starting point turn left off the Arthur Highway at Eaglehawk Neck onto the C3338 Blowhole Rd and follow this road for approximately 3km before turning right into Tasmans Arch Road.  Drive along Tasmans Arch Road to the Devils Kitchen, a distance of about 1km and park car here.


The walk starts at the southern end of the Devils Kitchen Car Park.  Follow the wide walking track through low eucalypts, Banksia, Bull Oaks and Tea-Tree. There are several lookouts along the track which give glimpses of rock platforms eroded by thousands of years of wave action, sea caves gouged out of the base of the cliffs as well as views to the Hippolyte Rock and Cape Hauy.

The Lanterns & Cape Hauy

PattersonsArch

One of the most spectacular features along the walk is Pattersons Arch which demonstrates the power of the sea to carve out the sedimentary rock of these massive cliffs.  

As the track approaches Waterfall Bay, the cliffs get higher and the vegetation changes with trees becoming taller and the understorey now containing Musk, Dogwood and Bedfordia.  From several lookout spots there are views across the bay to the 100 metre cliffs, the waterfalls and up to the rocky crest of Clemes Peak.

Waterfall Bay

Clemes Peak

Return to the carpark via the same route.  This is a great walk for the family - a good, clear track with a little bit of elevation with the added bonus of having breathtaking scenery.


While the day didn't pan out as originally planned it was still very enjoyable, even though we didn't really get to test ourselves with loaded backpacks...there's always next time.

Walk No 5......Fortescue Bay to Cape Hauy 27/2/2011

So, I finally have my first repeat offender...after completing the Fazackerley Range Circuit with me, Jane has willingly put up her hand to do another walk. I don't need to be asked twice so it was straight to the walks book to select the next hike. Fortescue Bay to Cape Hauy is the destination of choice.

The return walk to Cape Hauy is approximately 10 k's and can be completed in 4 hours but to enjoy the spectacular coastal scenery you would be advised to allow a longer period.  This area features the tallest sea cliffs in the Southern Hemisphere at over 300 metres, and this walk provides the opportunity to view them first hand....awesome! The walk is graded medium and consists of mainly narrow but distinct tracks which can be muddy in parts. A reasonable level of fitness is required to undertake this walk. 


On a world scale this area is very unique.....the gigantic columns and cliffs at Cape Hauy are composed of Jurassic Dolerite...the most extensive of all dolerite formations worldwide are found in Tasmania. The striking 'Organ Pipes' of Mt Wellington, looming over Hobart, are dolerite as too is Mt Ossa (Tasmania's highest peak), Mt Olympus and the jagged peaks of Cradle Mountain, and much else of eastern, southern and central Tasmania.


To access the track turn left off the Arthur Highway 3.5km south of the junction at Taranna onto a gravel forestry road marked 'Fortescue Bay Camping Area 12km'. Follow the signs for the next 12km to Fortescue Bay and park in the Casuarina Day Use Area. Fortescue Bay is a sheltered inlet on the eastern side of the Peninsula.  The long, sheltered beach, unspoiled views, and tranquil waters make it one of the most beautiful places on the peninsula. 


As this walk is in the Tasman National Park, park entry fees apply. A Tasmania Parks and Wildlife pass will need to be purchased from the Ranger on site...the cost of the passes range from $12.00 for a 24 hour pass up to $123.00 for 2 years entry. The track is accessed just near the boat ramp where there is a sign marked 'Cape Hauy Track 4 hours return'.

The track follows the rocky shore for about 15 minutes walk then climbs southeast. After approximately 30 minutes the track turns south away from the coast and after a short level section climbs steeply into dry sclerophyll forest (vegetation that has hard leaves and short internodes....the distance between the leaves along the stem). The track now passes through two rather wet areas of low scrub.  After about an hours walk the track climbs onto a low spur and reaches a sign marked 'Cape Pillar via Mt Fortescue' pointing to the right.

It was at this junction we decided to have a morning tea break. Newly refreshed we follow the track as it descends steeply onto the Cape.  The vegetation from now on consists of low coastal heathland with many flowering species.

The route crosses a saddle and there are extensive views both north to the Forestier coast and Maria Island, and south to Cape Pillar, with the Blade clearly silhouetted against the sky.  Unfortunately, due to the drizzly conditions we didn't get the extensive views that are visible on a clear day, however what we could see was still spectacular. 

First View of the Cape

Natural Arch at base of cliffs

Looking back while climbing to the next ridge it is possible to see a natural arch where the sea has undermined the base of the towering cliffs.

From the ridge with its view of Hippolyte Rock beyond the Cape, the track descends to pass a deep sinkhole on the left. A sinkhole is a natural depression or hole in the Earth's surface caused by the dissolution of a layer or layers of bedrock.  Unfortunately, I was unable to take a clear photo of the sinkhole as I wasn't able to summon up the courage to get close enough to take a decent shot or to have a good look inside it. However, anyone who is more adventurous than me and manages to get within close proximity will notice that because of its depth, the bottom is sheltered and has created an environment which supports vegetation quite different from the surrounding heathland. There are Treeferns and other wet forest species growing there.

Now the fun begins! The track from now on never deviates far from the steep, unguarded cliff edge, and with the gusty winds prevailing its cause on occasion for some hairy moments, especially for Jane who is slight of build...not quite such a problem for me! Needless to say the views of rock outcrops and small islands are nothing short of spectacular.

The track eventually reaches a sign warning walkers that the track ends after a further 50 metres.  While this may be true, it is possible to proceed on further down a steep descent to enable a glimpse of the unique rock formation known as the Candlestick, which rises vertically from the sea. The Candlestick stands next to the end of the Cape clearly visible just next to the spot we chose to have lunch and behind it are the sea stacks known as The Lanterns. While the Totem Pole, another large dolerite column rising out of the sea, is not visible at this level it is possible to scramble down to within a few metres of the water for a better view.  Be warned....this is extremely dangerous as the descent is over steep loose rock...with this in mind Jane and I decided against going any further. 


These sea stacks are popular for climbing and abseiling.  The Candlestick is 112m high while the Totem Pole stands at 60 metres with a diameter of only about 4m. According to the Climbing Club of Tasmania website access to both stacks is by abseiling to the base of the Cape (approx. 60 m)  More Climbing Info

Take a look at this photo of a climber on the Totem Pole...not for the novice or the faint hearted.






As mentioned earlier we find a great little spot on the top of the Cape to have our lunch...overlooking the picturesque Forestier Coast with the added bonus of a large number of dolphins playing in the bay...just fantastic, wonder what the poor people are doing for lunch today!

The return trip to Fortescue Bay was fairly uneventful, although there were several other walkers on the track, we encountered 25 for the day.  Of the walks completed so far I would consider this one to be the most spectacular as far as the scenery goes....it is just magnificent.  The walk itself is not hard as the track is well formed and easily traversed, there are several steep areas but nothing anyone with a reasonable level of fitness would find challenging.


Although at relatively low-altitude, allowing year-round bushwalking on the Peninsula, south-westerly weather changes can suddenly roar across Storm Bay bringing rain, hail, and a drastic drop in temperature, even in the summer months, so it is wise to be prepared.  When we completed this walk the forecast for Hobart was 21 degrees and fine, however we encountered wet, cold and windy conditions. It is recommended that walkers are equipped with sturdy footwear, such as boots or non-slip runners, carry sufficient drinking water, spare food, clothing, sun-hats, sun-screen, wet-weather gear, first-aid kit, maps and other necessities.  It is essential to also exercise extreme caution where there are unguarded lookouts with high drops, cliffs with loose or crumbling edges, blow-holes, or slippery inclines. I would be reluctant to take young children on this walk unless prepared to be very vigilant and keep them under constant supervision.


While this is a four hour return walk, as advised earlier,  it is worth allowing longer so as to enjoy the stunning surrounds.  We left the camping ground at 10.00am and returned at 4.00pm, which allowed for numerous photo stops and a leisurely lunch.


If you only manage to complete one walk on the Peninsula (and I hope it is more than this) I would highly recommend you consider undertaking the walk to Cape Hauy...I know you will find it truly inspiring, just as Jane & I did.


A few more shots of what you will see along the way.

Candlestick

                                        

 Totem Pole, Candlestick & Lanterns from the sea